Years ago, the Barrio Escalante neighborhood was like any other small residential enclave of houses and apartment buildings. But something was different. Flanked by the university neighborhoods of San Pedro to the east and the business center of San José to the west, its rise in popularity as a hub of activity and culture almost seems inevitable now. Easy to get to, close to downtown, with an endless influx of students from nearby universities, Escalante was destined for cultural development.
Other areas of San José have emerged as culture zones too, Escazu to the south or Rohrmoser/Sabana to the west, but no place has earned quite the same connotation of ‘cool’ as Escalante. Just the mere mention of going to Escalante gets raised eyebrows and followup questions from your new tico friends. “Are you going on a date?”, “Where in Escalante?”, or my personal favorite, “Ooooh, Escalaaaante.”
Whether you’re on that date, with friends, or flying solo, here are 10 ways to spend some free time in San José’s trendiest neighborhood:
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Parque Francia
Why is a small park in the middle of a one-way roundabout at the top of this list? Because taking a seat, people watching, and sharing food and drinks with friends at Parque Francia is a rite of passage for every young or hip tico. The park is busy at all hours of the day, but really comes alive at night as friend groups meet up, dates begin and end, and everyone finds a place on the grass to chill. Musicians, magicians, and circus performers can periodically be seen in Parque Francia at night, all the more adding to the artistic, free-spirited vibe throughout Escalante.
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Neon Ice
The Vanjie. The Oddly. If any of these names sound familiar to you, then you already know what Neon Ice is about. It’s Escalante’s trendiest LGBTQ hangout, famous for its light menu, sugary drinks, and grammable interiors. Everywhere you point your camera is bathed in neon light or cotton-candy hued artwork. One piece in particular has reached icon-level status in the world of Costa Rican influencers. As one friend put it, “Did you even go to Neon Ice if you didn’t get a picture in front of the Gorgeous sign?”
100 este y 100 norte del Parque Francia, Barrio Escalante
Instagram: neonicecr
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Go Shopping
The independently owned boutiques of Barrio Escalante are popular for their unique, one-of-a-kind advantage over the very well-known stores of San José malls. Many of the stores in Escalante host products handcrafted from Costa Rican designers and artisans- because there’s much more to Costa Rican fashion and culture than a ‘Pura Vida’ tank top. Shop for women’s clothes at Buena Nena, handbags at TORIBIO, essential oils at Pachamama Macrobiótica, art at Casa Escalante, local bagged coffee from coffee shops, and plenty of supers for groceries and snacks.
Everywhere, Barrio Escalante
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Antigua Aduana
There is a clearly defined western border of Barrio Escalante, where the intimate neighborhood ends and the bustling city of San José begins. It’s the historic site of the city’s original train station turned modern event space, Antigua Aduana. The largeness and grandeur of the old brick terminal, updated with geometric steel and glass additions, is a favorite of casual picture-takers and architecture enthusiasts alike. Across the street is the Old Atlantic Rail Station, a historic, quaint train station and platform that still sees a few trains a day.
Antigua Aduana, Calle 23, Barrio Escalante
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Paseo Gastronómico La Luz
The anchor for all of Barrio Escalante is undoubtedly the restaurants and eateries that line Calle 33. It’s nickname comes from an old supermarket, La Luz, that once stood on the main street. Now, it is a haven for foodies, get-togethers, date nights, and anyone seeking a delicious meal. You can find everything from cheap food trucks to James Beard Award winners, all within just a few short blocks of each other. Check out local favorites al mercat, Mantras, Kalú, or Apotecario for starters.
Calle 33 entre Avenida Central y Avenida 13 y sus alrededores, Barrio Escalante
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Cine Magaly
Okay, so technically Cine Magaly straddles the edge between Barrio Escalante and the nightlife neighborhood of La Cali, but it’s just a couple minutes walk from Parque Francia to this cultural landmark of yesteryear. Cine Magaly was built in the 1970s in a larger than life art deco style. The views from inside its single theatre are quite something, but get there early for good seats. It’s the premiere movie theater for foreign and award-winning films and draws large crowds every weekend.
Calle 23, La California
cinemagaly.com
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Librería Francesa
Right next to Parque Francia is another ‘French’ gem, a small book shop with a huge selection. It’s name isn’t just a nod to the park, Librería Francesa also carries a very large selection of French classics translated into Spanish. Stop in to see a curated, modern collection of great Spanish reads and maybe pick up a book to read for Spanish practice, too!
Frente al parque Francia, Barrio Escalante
libreriafrancesa.net
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Jardín de Lolita
Jardín de Lolita, or just ‘Lolita’, is only a block from popular meeting point Parque Francia. Just across the train tracks, you’ll see its yellow string lights and plant-covered entrance walls lighting up the whole alley. Inside are 99 food stands retro-fitted in upcycled shipping container architecture. There’s lots of choices AND lots of communal seating- two floors, a balcony, and a subterranean indoor/outdoor garden area with even more. You still might have to hunt for a seat though. On weekend nights, patrons spill out onto the sidewalk and the inside is a revolving door of friend groups, dates, and small celebrations.
50m este del costado, sur de la Antigua Aduana, Barrio Escalante
Instagram: jardindelolita
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Galway Ice Cream y Helados
The ice cream at Galway might literally have you screaming. This corner heladería boasts a rotating menu of artisanal ice cream and gelato, from regular classics to spirits-infused Franken-flavors. It’s definitely not your mama’s old-fashioned ice cream stand, and they’ve got the late night hours to prove it. Eat responsibly!
Avenida Santa Teresita, Barrio Escalante
Instagram: galwaycostarica
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Franco
It doesn’t feel right calling this place a coffee shop. From the moment you step in, you are transported out of Costa Rica and into a sleek, modern espresso bar more reminiscent of the Mediterranean than Central America. Franco takes such care with their modern interiors, elevated small plates menu, and measured service, it’s hard to not feel just a little posh when you’re dining inside. In 2017, Franco was profiled by the New York Times travel section as a “progressive coffeehouse” with “some of San José’s best baristas and coffee sourced from top farms all over the country.”
Avenida 7 #3166, Barrio Escalante
franco.cr
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